Putting the Farm Back in Food
By Jo-An Rechtin
Daily Local News (West Chester, PA)
April 26, 2000

CSAs offer an alternative to supermarkets

Early each spring, I survey my yard for the plot. I fantasize about tilling the soil, planting and harvesting my own crops. I picture my children yanking carrots from the ground in awe of the process of nature. I can almost taste the sweet melons eaten at the peak of ripeness right from a vine - in my garden - which I have no time to manage. The reality of my lifestyle ends the fantasy every year.

What if there were a way to connect my family to the food growing process and to consume incredibly healthy, tasty foods without having to completely manage my own garden?

There is. And the solution would not only be beneficial to my family, but to a local farm as well. I am referring to Community Supported Agriculture, or CSA.

CSAs have their roots in Japan and Europe. In Japan, the arrangements of communities with local farmers are called "teikei" which translates to "putting the farmers' face on food." CSAs are a relatively new idea in the U.S., but they are rapidly gaining momentum.

A CSA is a relationship of mutual support and commitment between local farmers and community members. Members pay a fee to the farmer to cover production costs of the farm, then receive a weekly share of the harvest during the growing season.

The growing season in our area tends to be late May to late November. Members pick up their just-harvested produce once a week at the farm. The farmer benefits by having a secure contracted market for his produce.

Member benefits are many, not the least of which is the availability of nutritious, affordable and wholesome foods.

"CSAs are an exciting challenge in Pennsylvania," commented Lauren Smith of the state Association for Sustainable Agriculture, "because Pennsylvania is still full of family farms. This is an economically viable solution for all.

"CSAs are ecologically balanced and environmentally correct," Smith said. "CSA farmers do not fall into the commercial traps of using pesticides, herbicides, and other agri-chemicals. We don't believe that the way to save agriculture is through technology."

"Our philosophy is simple," said Sam Cantrell of Maysie's Farm Conservation Center, a CSA near Ludwigs Corner. "We grow healthy soil which grow healthy plants to grow healthy people."

Beyond the organic aspects of the food, keeping it local also ensures peak ripeness, flavor, and vitamin and mineral content. Foods are often consumed just hours after harvest. Eating locally also boosts local economies, Cantrell said.

"Sometimes people don't think about the true cost of the food on the supermarket shelves," commented Cantrell. "The price doesn't include ecological damage to the land and air (the average vegetable travels over 1,300 miles to get to your supermarket shelf), the true costs of nonrenewable resources, and possible health costs associated with chemical intake."

Obtaining your produce from the farm also eliminates the need for packaging and warehousing, supporters note.

Another benefit to supporters: CSAs encourage land stewardship. With Chester County developing at mind-boggling rate, CSAs can give farmers the opportunity to grow food rather than houses.

The Center for Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education lists four CSAs operating in Chester County.

Kimberton CSA, reportedly the second in the country, started in 1986 and now has a four-year waiting list for membership. Barbara Sullivan, co-operator at Kimberton, cited many reasons to join a CSA, with the foremost being putting food back into the context of the farm.

Of course, many people are now accustomed to picking up that one cucumber and tomato while shopping at the supermarket.

"The CSA is give and take," said Sullivan, "you sacrifice some freedom and convenience, but it becomes a way of life, just like having your own garden. You learn to eat in season - which is really healthier. And there is more variety and the opportunity to try new things - like chive blossoms. The farm really bolsters your best intentions to eat well."

At Kimberton, like at many CSAs, members have the opportunity to pick some of their own crops like fresh raspberries, strawberries, peas, and flowers. There is some diversity in how farms compute membership costs. Kimberton operates on a pledge system. Sullivan figures the average member spends about $20 per pick-up. "Sometimes I look at the bounty of what the members are carrying out of here, and think, wow, that's a lot of great food for $20."

Cantrell, a field biologist and teacher by training, has put aside his career goals to resurrect his family farm. Cantrell felt farming would best fulfill his commitment to conservation and education, but admits that it has been "challenging financially."

"The capital investments have been significant. That stress, however, was moderated by the enthusiastic support of the shareholders who reacted to decreased yields by last year's drought by donating money toward a well and irrigation system."

In 1997, Maysie's Farm went from serving zero to 51 households. This year Cantrell hopes to feed 130 households, farming five acres, but has not met his membership yet.

Cantrell's motto is: "Think globally, eat locally."

Jules and MaryBeth Simone of Phoenixville belong to Kimberton CSA. "Jules heard about the farm through a customer, and took to the idea right away," MaryBeth said. "We had been eating organic and found it expensive.

"The variety of produce offered and the low cost of CSA produce was very appealing," she said. "And when I tasted the first crop of luscious strawberries, I knew it was worth it."

Some CSAs offer workshops on canning, drying and preserving.

"Making the produce last beyond the season really lowers the cost," MaryBeth Simone added. "But what I like best is that I feel like I'm helping my community."

To learn more about community-supported agriculture contact:

www.CSAcenter.org (includes a data base for CSAs with site links and phone numbers)

Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture at 814-349-9856

Maysie's Farm Conservation Center CSA, Glenmoore 610-458-8129

Sankanak CSA, Kimberton, 610-495-5096

New Comfort Homestead, Peach Bottom, 717-548-4077

Kimberton CSA, Kimberton, 610-933-8339